You can imagine yourself in an open Gypsy slowly and
silently cruising along a dense forest trail, listening to the alarm calls of a
Langur warning the existence of a Tiger. You feel a scratchy feeling in the
nape of your neck as the forest floor quietness, and you silently observe,
through the early morning haze, a faint image of yellow and black stripes
crossing the trail ahead. You move on, as the early rays of the sun make an
array of magical shapes through the trees across the forest floor, and your lungs
revel in the fresh morning air.
Such is the experience at Bandhavgarh National Park; one of
the few remaining havens for the pride of Indian Wildlife - the Royal Bengal
Tiger.
Bandhavgarh is a new National Park with a very long history.
Set among the Vindhya hills of Madhya Pradesh with an area of 168sq miles
(437sq kms) it contains a wide variety of habitats and a high density of game,
including a large number of Tigers. This is also the White tiger country. These
have been found in the old state of Rewa for many years. The last known was
captured by Maharaja Martand Singh in 1951. This white Tiger, Mohun is now
stuffed and on display in the Palace of Maharaja of Rewa.
Prior to becoming a National Park, the forests around
Bandhavgarh had long been maintained as a Shikargarh, or game preserve of the
Maharaja of Rewa. The Maharaja and his guests carried out hunting - otherwise
the wildlife was well protected. It was considered a good omen for Maharaja of
Rewa to shoot 109 tigers. His Highness Maharaja Venkat Raman Singh shot 111
Tigers by 1914.
History
Bandhavgarh has been a center of human activity and
settlement for over 2000 years, and there are references to it in the ancient
books, the Narad-Panch Ratra and the Shiva Purana. Legend has it that Lord
Rama, hero of the Hindu epic, the Ramayana, stopped at Bandhavgarh on his way
back to his homeland after defeating the demon King Ravana of Lanka. Two monkey
architects, who had engineered a bridge between the isles of Lanka and the
mainland, are said to have built Bandhavgarh's fort. Later Rama handed it over
to his brother Lakshmana who became known as Bandhavdhish "The Lord of the
Fort". Lakshmana is the particular God of the fort and is regularly
worshipped in a temple there. The oldest sign of habitation in the park are
caves dug into the sandstone to the north of the fort. Several contain Brahmi
inscriptions dating from the 1st century B.C. Various dynasties have ruled the
fort, for example, the Maghas from the 1st century A.D., the Vakatakas from the
3rd century A.D., From that time onwards Bandhavgarh was ruled by a succession
of dynasties including the Chandela Kings of Bundelkhand who built the famous
temples at Khajuraho. The Baghel Kings, the direct ancestors of the present
Royal family of Rewa, established their dynasty at Bandhavgarh in the 12th
century. It remained their capital till 1617 when the center of court life
moved to Rewa, 75 miles (120Kms) to the north. Without royal patronage
Bandhavgarh became more and more deserted until forest overran the area band it
became the royal hunting reserve. This helped to preserve the forest and its
wildlife, although the Maharajas made full use of their rights. Each set out to
kill the auspicious number of 109 Tigers.
At independence Bandhavgarh remained the private property of
the Maharaja until he gave it to the state for the formation of the National
Park in 1968. After the park was created poaching was brought under control and
the number of animals rose dramatically. Small dams and water holes were built
to solve the problem of water shortage. Grazing by local cattle was stopped and
the village within the park boundaries was relocated. The Tigers in particular
prospered and the 1986 extension provided much needed forest to accommodate
them.
The Fort
The fort still belongs to the Maharaja of Rewa and
permission is required to visit it. However permission is available locally and
no trip to Bandhavgarh is complete without making an effort to climb up the
fort.
There are two ways up on the plateau, a jeep track and a
footpath-both steep. It is far easier to see the fort by the jeep but much more
rewarding to make the journey on foot. There is a convenient place to park
vehicles on the southern side of the fort in the lush jungle which surrounds
its base. This point is known as Shesh Saaiya, named after a unique 35 foot (11
meters) long statue of reclining Vishnu carved around the 10th century, from
whose feet the Charanganga is said to flow. A rectangular pool of spring water
lies just beneath the statue and the path to the main gate of the fort. On the
other side of this imposing gateway lie 560 acres (227 hectares) of grassland,
over which are scattered turtle-filled tanks and the many remains of the human
inhabitants of the fort- from ancient statues to the barracks occupied by
Rewa's troops upto independence. At a brisk pace the walk from the Shesh Saaiya
to the southern side of the fort need only take an hour, but if you stop to see
the statues and temples on the way it can easily take much longer. As you
follow the path southwards, the most remarkable sights are the 10th century
rock images of the incarnations of Vishnu. A statue of Narsimhan ( half man
half lion) towers almost 22 feet above the grass. There is a carving of Barah
Bhagwan (the boar incarnation), and a small temple enshrining a large image of
Vishnu in his fish avtaar. The tortoise incarnation stands unenclosed and
flanked by later carvings of Ganesh, the elephant God, and other deities. The
charm of this walk lies in discovering these monuments in the jungle, unspoilt
and unexploited. Some of the statues lie off the main path and so it is best to
take a guide. Apart from the avatars, well worth seeing are three small temples
of around the 12th century. These temples are deserted but the fort is still
used as a place of worship. Kabir Das, the celebrated 16th century saint, once
lived and preached here.
The natural ramparts of the fort give breathtaking view of
the surrounding countryside. Vultures wheel around the precipice, which also
attracts blue rock thrushes and crag martins. The fort has a small population
of Blackbuck, which have been reintroduced and to some extent protected from
Tigers in the park below by repairs to the masonry walls at the edges of the
fort.
Thus Bandhavgarh offers excellent game and bird viewing and
a historical interest which most other parks lack.
Geography Flora &
Fauna
There are 32 hills in this part of the park, which has a
large natural fort at its center. The fort's cliffs are 2625 feet (800 meters)
high, 1000 feet (300 meters) above the surrounding countryside. Over half the
area is covered by Sal forest although on the upper slope it is replaced by
mixed forest of sal, saj, dhobin, and saja. Winter temperatures
(Nov-mid-February) vary from almost freezing at night to around 68 degree
Fahrenheit in the daytime. Summer nights are also cooler than the daytime
temperature, which rises to 104 degree Fahrenheit. This park is closed during
the breeding season, which coincides with the monsoon (July-October). Rainfall
in the park averages 50 inches (120cm) per year.
Within The Park
Bandhavgarh is justifiably famous for its Tigers, but it has
a wide range of other game. The undergrowth is not as dense as in some northern
terai forests, but the best time to see the park inhabitants is still the
summer months when water becomes more scarce and the undergrowth dies back.
The most effective way to search for Tigers is on elephant back.
It's advisable tobook your elephant in advance and to wear plenty of warm
clothings if going for an early morning ride in winter. The mahouts are kept
well informed of the whereabouts of the nearest Tigers. However there are many
tigers in the park and the elephants are able to take you up steep, rocky
hillsides and down marshy riverbeds, which are impassable to vehicles.
There are several good weather roads in the park. Jeeps are
definitely recommended over other vehicles and can be hired from the Bagh
Vilas. A forest guide must accompany all visitors into the park. Entry in to
the park is allowed only during daylight hours. For both elephants and jeep
rides the hours immediately after dawn and before sunset are best.
Chinkara, still rather shy, can be sighted on the grassland
areas of the park,particularly on the formerly cultivated land in the southern
extension area, on the edges of the main viewing area. Also to be seen in the
grasslands are nilgai, chausingha, and sounders of wild boar, as well as the
occasional jackal or fox. Muntjac and sambhar prefer denser vegetation. The
main prey animal, however for the Tigers and the park's rarely sighted leopards
are the chital, which now number a few thousand.
There are two types of monkeys common in the park, the
rhesus macaque and the black-faced langur. Drives can also reveal jungle cats,
hyenas, porcupines, ratels, and a variety of other mammals. Bandhavgarh
attracts many migratory birds in the winter months, including the birds of prey
like the steppe eagle and a variety of wildfowl.
If the early morning Safari
is a thriller then the late afternoon rendezvous to get another glimpse
of the Tiger, and watch the shadows grow taller as dusk approaches and the
cacophony of birds grows louder in the trees, is not to be missed experience.
The nights in Bandhavgarh are an enigma- the twigs of the
bonfire crackling in the Bagh Vilas lawn, combined with the calling of the
jackal, the silhouettes of the trees against a starlit sky and perhaps, a
distant rumbling roar deep in the heart of the forest.
It's an experience of elation and sadness. Elation; to have
experienced a part of our rich bio-diversity. Sadness; considering the state of
the dwindling Tiger population and our depleting forest reserve …will our
children ever be able to witness nature in all its pristine glory?
Places to See in the Park
Archaeological Richness
of Bandhavgarh National Park
Bandhavgarh was the seat of ex-rulers of Rewa State and its
history dates back to 3rd Century A.D.Mythologically, the fort on Bandhavgarh
hill is said to have been built by Lord Rame for his brother Laxman ,during the
Ramayana period. There are a number of man-made caves(35) in Bandhavgarh with
inscriptions and carvings, which date back to 129-168 A.D. Statues of various
incarnations of all and attracts every tourist. There statues date back to
10-11 century A.D;
Places to See in
Bandhavgarh National Park
1. Sidhababa - The Holy Meadow : The
marshy is the abode of Sidhababa
2. Chakradhara - The Sprawling Meadow :
Surrounded by the hillocks, this marshy meadow is rich in both flora and fauna.
3. Gopalpur - A Place for Bird Watching :
Approach with a slow drive may give you moments of memorable sighting of wild
fauna.
4. Shesh Shaiya - Origin of River
Charanganga : This statue of lord Vishnu reclining on the seven hooded scrpent
is the classic example of the architechtural treasure of the past.
5. Bari Gufa - Ancient Monument of Past :
This is the biggest man made cave of the reserve dating back to tenth century.
6. Ketkiha - Pendanus Point : This wet
patch of aromatic plant " Pendanus " ( Kewra ) in the shadow of lofty
jammu and arjun trees is the real treasure of floristic wealth of the Rreserve.
7. Bhitari Bah - Tranquility in Wilderness
: Blissful drive along the meadow will induce thrills of jungle and feeling of
lingering relaxation.Look for the important medicinal.
8. Three Cave Point - The Archaeological
Remains of past : These caves visible from ganesh hillock road are the mute
testimony of rich historical past.
9. Rajbahera - The Bandhaini Hillock View
: This marshy meadow is the origin of river Dammer.Look for the storks, vultures
and herds of chital, samber and wild pigs.View of Bandhaini Hillock is an
additional attraction.
10. Climber's Point - Nature's Beauty :
Woody climbers of butea superba and Bauhinia wahlii amidst the giant sal trees
offer spectacular view for the tourist.
11. Sehra - The Fort View : This is the
biggest meadow of the Reserve.Look for the breeding pair of saras crane in the
month of june.It harbours the insectivorous plant drosera.
12. Mahaman Pond - Place to Quench the
Thirst : This water hole surrounded by bamboo clumps is an ideal place to watch
variety of hervivores and carnivores.
Bandhavgarh Fort : The oldest fort in India, considered to
be more than 2500 years. One-hour trek upto the fort is worth the effort. The
charm of this trek lies in discovering these monuments in the jungle, unspoiled
and unexplored. Some of the statues lie off the main path and so it is best to
take a guide. Apart from the avatars, well worth seeing are three small temples
of around the 12th century. These temples are deserted but the fort is still
used as a place of worship. Kabir Das, the celebrated 16th century saint, once
lived and preached here. The natural ramparts of the fort give breathtaking view
of the surrounding countryside. Vultures wheel around the precipice which also
attracts blue rock thrushes and crag martins.The fort still belongs to the
Maharaja of Rewa and permission is required to visit it. However permission is
available locally and no trip to Bandhavgarh is complete without making an
effort to climb up the fort. The staff of the Bagh Vilas carries your lunch
while you are busy negotiating the trek upto the fort. Supplement charged
Places to See Around the
Park
Village Tala : To view a day in the life of an Indian
village, where the pace of life is still measured by the rhythm of the seasons.
The humble dwellings, the mud clustered houses, the elders smoking hookahs
sitting on a cot, are some of the common scenes which signify that the time
stands still in certain areas of the world even today.
Baghel Museum : It houses certain precious belongings
of the Maharaja of Rewa who maintained Bandhavgarh as his Shikargah, or a game
preserve, a stuffed white Tiger still stands in the museum amidst certain
personal belongings of the Maharaja.
Bhamera Dam : Huge water bank in the neighboring
Panpatha Sanctuary, good place for water birds.
Gharpuri Dam : Adjoining on the outskirts of
Bandhavgarh National Park Good Place for Water birds.
Chenchpur Waterfall : A beautiful waterfall.
Place to Stay
The Bagh Vilas
Total Room : 21 Rooms
Tree House : 4
Machaan : 5
Mud House : 12
Geographical Deatils
Area: 1161 sq. kms.
Core: 624 sq kms.
Buffer: 537 sq. kms.
Longitude: 80 47’15’’ to 81 11’ 45 E
Latitude: 23 30’ 12 to 23 45’ 45 N
Altitude: 440mts to 810mts above sea level.
Rainfall: 1175mm.
Temperature: Min. 2 c Max. 44 c.
Forest Type
Moist Peninsular low level Sal -3C/C2a
Wet Gangetic moist mixed Deciduous forest -3C/C3a
Seasons
Monsoon mid- June to Sept.
Winter Nov. to mid-Feb.
Summer mid -March to mid -June
Opening Time
Park is open from 16st October till 30th June.
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